Portugal Travelogue, Part 4: Because sometimes the best days are the ones that go a bit sideways.
The next leg of our epic tour though Portugal this summer took us back to Porto before moving on to Coimbra, gain, by train.
Read the rest of this series of travel blogs here: Journal – Hen's Tooth
Slow travel has a way of reminding us that plans are optional. You wake up with ideas but Portugal nudges you in another direction.
Our stop off in Porto before the next leg of the journey south turned into a mix of detours, misty rooftop cocktails, ancient villages and a very bumpy mountain safari.
A 13th‑Century Surprise: The Customs House
We stumbled across the Casa do Infante, Porto’s old Customs House down a side street. This is a 13th‑century building, one of the oldest in the city, layered with history.
Museums in Portugal are free on a Sunday so it was rude not to go inside.
The original medieval towers were built directly over a Roman house, so the archaeology museum inside reveals beautiful fragments of mosaic floors and artefacts from centuries past. Exhibits are in Portuguese and English, which makes them easy to follow… although, we couldn't be bothered to read all of it - so much information.
Slow travel rule: curious is essential, homework is optional.
The Joy of Staying Put: Slow Travel & Good Room Design
One of the underrated pleasures of slow travel is staying in the same place for more than two nights. You start noticing the tiny things that make life easier. These are the unsung unsung heroes of a good room, a useful checklist for booking your next holiday apartment:
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A kettle (non‑negotiable)
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Fridge
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Shelf space in the bathroom and the shower
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A table to work, play board games, or snack at
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Bedside tables with sockets. Bonus points for USB sockets
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Real glasses instead of flimsy paper cups
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A washing machine
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A hairdryer that doesn’t wheeze
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Plenty of plug sockets
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A big, comfortable bed
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A balcony or outdoor nook
- Iron & ironing board (as a linen dress fan, this is a must)
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A wardrobe with shelves and hanging space
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A knife, cutting board, and corkscrew
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More than one mirror (why do hotels forget this?)
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Hooks for jackets
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Somewhere to dry clothes
Tired décor? Forgivable. Lack of shelf space? Absolutely not.
The Monday Museum Curse
We forgot it was Monday. Monday is the universal day when museums collectively decide to shut.
So instead of culture, we hopped on a bus to the waterfront to visit an immersive dinosaur exhibition (because dinosaurs are cool). Naturally, that was shut too.
With no backup plan, we got suckered into a touristy river cruise. It was lovely. A gentle trip up and down the Douro with multilingual commentary, sunshine, and a fine spray of river water on our faces. The boat could have held triple the number of people, but thankfully it didn’t; so we leaned on the railings, soaked up the views, and let Porto drift by.
Smoothies, Misty Rain & Rooftop Bars
After the cruise, we wandered over to the Gaia side. Home to port wine warehouses, a strip of cafés and bars, and a pop‑up market perfect for a slow mooch.
Our planned rooftop bar was closed (Monday strikes again), so we ducked into a family‑run eatery down a side street.
Cold beer, lamb chops, potatoes, vegetables… and enough olive oil to moisturise a small village.
As we left, the Atlantic mist rolled in. We took the cable car back up the hill and found another rooftop bar with shelter and a spectacular view across the river. A port‑and‑tonic, chilled beats, and drifting rain, bliss - except for the loud Spanish couple on a FaceTime call for far too long.
Who sits in a gorgeous bar with panoramic views and then ignores it all for their phone? Plus, it wasn't cheap to sit up there! People are baffling.
Eventually they left, the mist cleared, and Porto felt peaceful again. We ran out of things to do, so we rested in the apartment. There are worse places to be bored.
One Last Brunch & One More Chicken Trinket
Our final morning meant one last brunch at Look Sharp (again), our favourite local cafe bar. Then a final wander through the markets, where I bought one more chicken‑themed trinket.
Will I keep it? Sell it at a Hen’s Tooth market stall? TBD.
A Safari Into the Mountains
In the afternoon, we joined a Jeep safari tour into the mountains just outside Porto. Our guide drove us through a village famous for bread and cookies. Yes, we tasted them, yes, we bought biscuits to bring home (and bag of coffee, I always like to bring coffee home).
We met another couple on the tour (two younger Brits, fellow allotment people. Instant kinship unlocked).
Then the driver dropped the roof of the soft‑top Land Rover and we stood in the back, hanging onto the crossbars as we bumped along rocky passes that even seasoned hikers would find challenging.
We visited an ancient village where only six people still live, three families holding onto tradition in the hills. And I took lots of pictures of the village cats. Because... cats.
Then we descended into the stunning Fiera Valley, stopping at a river beach to explore, take photos of frogs, and soak up the scenery.
A beer stop in a tiny local village rounded off the adventure before we headed back to Porto, tired but exhilarated.
Back in t the city, we picked up pastries for breakfast.
Next stop: Coimbra